Lizzy visits the coasts of Brazil

My first beach stop was the beautiful Casa dos Arandís on the Maraú peninsula, part of the Cacao coast and around a 2½ hour journey from Ilheus airport. The peninsula is stunning - beach on one side and bay on the other, all surrounded by forest. I was warmly welcomed by owners Cacau and Nanana, Nanana's son Joca and manager Mariana, and then fed a delicious seafood lunch looking out across the deserted beach. Cacau and Nanana first visited the area 20 years ago on their honeymoon, fell in love with it and spent the following 4 years looking for land to buy. The rest is history and their love of the area and their passion for hospitality really comes across - I didn't want to leave and they have many returning guests so must be doing something right!

The property has just 7 rustic but beautiful wooden bungalows and 1 room, all set amidst lush gardens. There is a yoga area, a lookout platform and plenty of areas to just sit and relax. The beach never had more than a handful of people on it and there are hammocks and sunbeds for guests. Visitors can also borrow surf/body boards and bikes and a short 10 minute stroll along the beach takes you to the small village of Algadões. Every meal was fantastic; even breakfast was a feast to behold! I visited neighbouring Sitio do Oteiro where Cacau's friend Marcio does tours of his land and I tried his delicious açaí (a Brazilian palm superfruit). I also took a boat trip into the Camamu bay and to Tremembé waterfall, stopping en-route for a delicious lobster lunch.

www.lastfrontiers.com/hotels/brazil/southern-bahia/casa-dos-arandis

Next stop was the fashionable village of Trancoso (one and a half hours by road from the city of Porto Seguro, or an epic all-day journey from Maraú). Here I stayed at the beautiful Tutabel, much more of a hotel but small scale and wonderfully welcoming. Around 20 (bumpy) minutes by car from the main grassy square (quadrado) of Trancoso it has the benefit of being right on the beach, and in a very deserted section. The beach below Trancoso in comparison is busy with beach bars and people. The village is beautiful though, with colourful properties surrounding the quadrado and numerous bars and restaurants sparkling with fairy lights once the sun goes down. 

www.lastfrontiers.com/hotels/brazil/porto-seguro-to-trancoso/tutabel

I then flew to São Paulo and travelled overland to Paraty, a once-colonial port of cobbled streets (careful of ankles!), colonial buildings and pretty churches surrounded by Atlantic rainforest and the beautiful bays of Brazil’s 'Emerald coast'. I stayed at the lovely Pousada Literária, on the edge of the old town (a bit quieter than the centre) and with beautiful common areas such as the huge library and outdoor swimming pool. Nearby is Fazenda Bananal which guests can visit at no charge - there are walkways through the forest and the old fazenda building has been beautifully restored into a museum. I also took a boat trip to Vila Mamanguá, an alternative for those looking to stay away from the town for a few nights, a 2-bedroomed villa comes fully staffed and has a lovely deck and garden and a small private beach. On my final night I joined Rafa who organises cachaça (the cane spirit used in Brazil's famous drink, the caipirinha) tours around town, a brilliant and interesting experience - I got to try many different cachaças and finished off with Paraty's signature cocktail the 'Gabriela' which contains clove and cinnamon-flavoured cachaça mixed with passion fruit and lime juices.

www.lastfrontiers.com/hotels/brazil/paraty/pousadaliteraria

Then finally to Rio.. I had hoped Rio would still have the same warm and friendly feeling it had had when I first visited and instantly it did. I spent 2 nights at a hotel on Copacabana beach and made sure to visit Sugar Loaf Mountain this time, heading there for sunset which was busy but beautiful. That morning I also hiked in Tijuca national park, up to Tijuca peak - a moderate hike of around 2 hours with stunning views across Rio from the top. I'd certainly recommend it for people wanting to do something a bit different, although avoid weekends as it was pretty busy at the top, and there are some steep sections.