Oli in Costa Rica - Pura Vida

My trip began with a stay at the beautiful Poás Volcano Lodge, a 45 minute drive from the international airport in San José and 15 minutes from the Poás Volcano National Park. It was the perfect place to relax and unwind after a long (but surprisingly comfortable) flight from Madrid with Iberia. I was greeted by the smiling face of Beba, one of the hotel's managers, a woman with an incredible past in pre-Castro Cuba and a truly wonderful host. Whilst in the area, I was treated to a coffee tour and the six course tasting menu at Finca Rosa Blanca, a small hotel and organic coffee farm just outside of San Jose. The coffee was delicious as was the food (most of which was cooked with coffee) and owners Terri and Glenn are deeply passionate about their produce and take excellent care of their guests.

The rest of my time in the highlands was spent enjoying the array of wildlife that can be found along the banks of the Pacuare river and in the steep valleys of San Gerardo de Dota. Pacuare Lodge was perhaps one of the most unique hotel experiences I ever have had and I would certainly recommend it to anyone visiting Costa Rica. Reached by a raft down grade II/III rapids (suitable for all levels), or a bumpy 4x4 journey, the lodge offers excellent, personal service and a multitude of activities. I spent my second day on a serious hike through the jungle to visit the Cabecar indigenous community, who live a very simple existence high in the cloud forest. I also visited San Gerardo de Dota, where birdwatching is the main attraction, principally for the resplendent quetzal. I was extraordinarily lucky to see not one, but five of these stunning birds. Although it is the national bird of Guatemala, more quetzals are actually seen in this area of Costa Rica.

From the highlands I headed south to the Pacific coast and the small up-and-coming town of Uvita, a fantastic alternative to the now-crowded Manuel Antonio. I stayed at the recently-opened Kura Design Villas where one cannot help but admire the meticulous attention to detail and the air of exclusivity that is ever-present at this modern hotel. Set high in the mountains, each of the 6 rooms at Kura are designed with couples in mind, all with private balconies, open plan bathrooms and king size beds (and the most comfortable pillows in the world). The swimming pool is the focal point of the hotel with a feature that I have only seen here: a fire in the pool with seating around it, a bit like a hot tub, perfect for a late night glass of wine. Just a few hours down the coast by car and by boat lies the Osa Peninsula and the Corcovado National Park where I spent a few days enjoying the diverse wildlife and snorkelling around Caño Island.

My final stop was at the small town of Santa Teresa on the west coast of the Nicoya peninsula. Costa Rica is famed for its beaches and Santa Teresa certainly lives up to the expectation. The beaches themselves are pristine and a huge effort is made by the local people to conserve the environment. It is a popular spot with ticos during the summer months and the surfing attracts wave riders from across the globe year round. I stayed at Flor Blanca, a beachside getaway made up of 11 bungalows scattered amongst beautifully kept gardens, all with outdoor bathrooms and large open air living spaces. Do make sure that you lock the minibar as the local raccoons have a habit of breaking in and raiding the fridge!